The Sri Harimandir Sahib or the Golden Temple at Amritsar
is the central religious place for Sikhs. As it symbolizes brotherhood and
equality, all people irrespective of their caste, creed or race can seek
spiritual solace and religious fulfillment without any hindrance. But for the
Sikhs the Sri Harimandir Sahib represents their distinct identity, glory
and heritage.
Since
deep antiquity a small lake in the midst of a quiet forest had
been a site of meditation and a retreat for wandering mendicants and sages. The
Buddha is known to have spent time at this place in meditation and contemplation.
Two thousand years after the Buddha, another philosopher-saint came to live and
meditate by the peaceful lake. This was Guru Nanak, the founder of the Sikh
religion. After his death, his disciples continued to visit the site and as
centuries went by it came to be a sacred place for the Sikhs.
It was Sri Guru Ram Dass Ji the Fourth Sikh Guru who decided
to enlarge and deepen the Amrit Sarovar - Holy Lake in 1577 A.D. Sri Guru Arjan Dev Ji the Fifth Sikh Guru
started the construction of Sri Harimandir Sahib. Land had been bought by
the previous Guru Sahibs or sometimes the local Zamindars –landlords had
donated it. The construction of a town settlement was also undertaken, so the building
work on the Sarovar and the town started simultaneously in 1570.
From the early 1600s to the mid 1700s, the Sikh Gurus were
constantly called upon to defend both their religion and their temple against
Muslim armies. On numerous occasions the temple was destroyed by the Muslims,
and each time the Sikhs rebuilt it more beautifully. From 1767 onwards, the
Sikhs became strong enough militarily to repulse invaders. Peace returned to
the Harimandir.
Sri Harimandir Sahib, the Golden Temple, has a unique form
of architecture, which can be termed the Sikh form of architecture. Unlike
Hindu Temples, Sri Harimandir Sahib is at a level lower than the surrounding
land level, thus symbolizing egalitarianism and humility. The four entrances to
the Sri Harimandir Sahib situated at the four cardinal points go to show that
any person without any distinction of caste, creed, sex and religion have a
place at the Sri Harimandir Sahib.
Sri Harimandir Sahib is built on a square platform right in the middle of
the Amrit Sarovar- the Holy Lake, at every Cardinal point of the Sri Harimandir
Sahib a door beckons you.
Connecting the Sri Harimandir Sahib to the wide Parikarma - the circumambulatory
path which runs right round the main shrine, is the Guru’s Bridge or causeway. The Darshani
Deori – Arch, stands at the shore end of the causeway.
Sri Harmandir Sahib is in all aspects a three-storied edifice. The
front, which faces the causeway, has a repeated design of cusped arches. The roof
of the first floor is at the height of the 26 feet and 9 inches.
At the top of the first floor, a four feet high parapet rises on all the
sides, this has four ‘Mamtees’ on each of the four corners. Exactly on the top
of the central hall of the main sanctuary we find the third storey. It is a
small square room and has three gates. Prayers from Guru Granth Sahib are
recited continuously. The fluted Gumbaz-dome shaped like an inverted lotus; it took 220 lbs. of
Gold to cover its surface. The top of the dome has a Kalash topped by a
Chhatri.
The
combination of several dozens of large, medium and miniature domes of gilded
copper create a unique and dazzling effect which is enhanced by its reflection
in the water below.
Amidst
a crowd of fervent and solemn devotees, scriptures from the Holy Book are sung
beneath a canopy studded with jewels. A chauri - whisk is
continually waved above the Book as pilgrims pay obeisance by touching their
foreheads to the temple floor and walls, and moving in a clockwise direction at
a relaxed pace.
After its compilation, Sri Guru Arjan Dev Ji installed
the newly created Guru Granth Sahib – the scripture of the Sikhs, in Harimandir
Sahib on August 16, 1604 A.D. Baba Budha Ji a devout Sikh, was appointed
as its first Head Priest or the first Granthi, the reader of Guru Granth Sahib.
Within the sanctuary, on a jewel-studded platform, lies the Adi Grantha,
the sacred scripture of the Sikhs. This scripture is a collection of devotional
poems, prayers, and hymns composed by the ten Sikh gurus and various Muslim and
Hindu saints. Beginning early in the morning and lasting until long past
sunset, these hymns are chanted to the exquisite accompaniment of flutes, drums,
and stringed instruments. Echoing across the serene lake, this enchantingly
beautiful music induces calm in the pilgrims strolling leisurely around the
marble concourse- Parikarma encircling the pool and temple. An underground
spring feeds the sacred lake, throughout the day and night, in any weather, pilgrims
immerse themselves in its water, a symbolic cleansing of the soul rather than
an actual bathing of the body.
Amritsar, the original name of first,
the ancient lake, then the temple complex, and still later the surrounding
city, means ‘pool of ambrosial nectar’. Peering deeply into the origins of this
word amrit, we find that it indicates a drink of the gods. This is an example
of the spirit, power, or energetic character of a holy place lending its name
as a geographical place name. The waters of Amritsar flowing into the lake of
the Hari Mandir were long ago and remain till today a bringer of peacefulness
as well as resoluteness.
I hurry; I am on my way to the Sri Harimandir Sahib or
the Golden Temple Complex. Thinking of my Father who quoted often ‘An army marches on its stomach’
I fortify myself with a thick,
Amul-butter oozing, aloo paratha and strong tea, enough to quieten my stomach
for a long time, although Sikhs around me are guzzling parathas and luchas
joyfully.
As usual when entering a place of
worship I need to knock off my footwear, I head to the place for footwear, a
huge room with tiered racks upon racks, as I hand over my dusty, worn out flip-flops,
I am ashamed that the lady behind the counter has to touch the dusty footwear.
I apologise; she smiles picks the flip-flops and moves away after handing me a
token. Here at the Sri Harimandir Sahib everything is about
humility and Seva.
I need to dip my feet in water, it is winter, the water must be cold;
it’s a little channel with running water. As I step in, the water is warm and
pleasant. I wonder do they warm the water?
I step up to the Ghanta Ghat Deori, the Clocktower, the
Gurdwara's main entrance. As I stand on the
threshold, the entire Harimandir Sahib Complex with the huge lake, lies in
front of me, the majestic Amrit Sarovar, calm, beautiful with shreds of mist hanging
all about it, although the sun is up and about glinting off all the domes. I
gasp at such stark simplicity and most of all the utter peace. Although
everywhere and everything is of marble which in itself is opulent, the
overriding appearance is that of Simplicity.
As I walk around the wide Parikarma-the circumambulatory path which runs right round the main shrine, I see
that it is made up entirely of white marble, inlaid with vari-coloured stones
in amazing designs. To prevent pilgrims from slipping, as all men dip
themselves in the Amrit Sarovar and there is water everywhere, long coir
carpets are placed as walkways. There is such organization, a place for shoes,
water for pilgrims in clean steel cups, place for wet clothes, separate
enclosures for women to dip themselves in the Amrit Sarovar and of course the Langar, serving thousands of
meals every day. Next to the temple complex are enormous pilgrims' dormitories.
It is well known that the meals as well are free for all persons irrespective
of their caste, creed or race.
In my circumambulatory path, I get to
the the shrine of Baba Deep Singh.
Legend
says that In April 1757, ‘Ahmad Shah
Durrani raided Northern India for the fourth time. On his way
back to Kabul from Delhi with precious booty and young men and women
as captives, the Sikhs make a plan to capture him, take away his
booty and free the captives. Baba Deep
Singh and his band took their position near Kurukshetra, a battle ensues, a
large number of prisoners are freed, Durrani's considerable treasury raided and
looted.
Durrani is incensed, embittered by his loss, orders the demolition of
the Harimandir Sahib. The shrine is blown up and the sacred pool desecrated
with the entrails of slaughtered cows. Durrani assigns the Punjab
region to his son, Prince Timur Shah, and leaves him a force of ten
thousand men under General Jahan Khan.
Baba Deep Singh, then aged around 75, feels that it is up to him to redress
the sin of having let the Afghans desecrate
the shrine. He emerges from his scholastic retirement and declares to a
congregation at Damdama Sahib that he intends to rebuild the temple.
Five hundred men go forward with him. Deep Singh offers prayers before
starting for Amritsar: "May my head fall at the Darbar Sahib." As he goes
from hamlet to hamlet, many villagers join him. By the time Baba Deep Singh reaches Tarn Taran
Sahib, ten miles from Amritsar, over five thousand peasants armed with
hatchets, swords, and spears accompany him.
The Sikhs and the Afghans clash in the battle of Amritsar, at the
village of Gohalwar on November 11, 1757, and in the ensuing conflict Baba Deep
Singh is decapitated.
The first version has it that Deep Singh continues to fight after having
been decapitated, slaying his enemies with his head in one hand and his sword
in the other. In this version, only upon reaching the sacred city
of Amritsar did he stop and finally die.
Another version, on being mortally wounded with a severe gash to his
head, a Sikh reminded Baba Deep Singh, ‘You had resolved to reach the periphery
of the pool’ On hearing this the Baba, supported his head with his left hand
and swept away the enemies with the strokes of his double-edged sword with his
right hand, reached the periphery of Harmindar Sahib where he breathed his
last.
The spot where Baba Deep Singh's head fell has a monument in
the Golden Temple complex, of course Sikhs from around the world pay their respects
there and so did I. Baba Deep Singh's 40 kg Khandha- double-edged sword,
which he used in his final battle, is still preserved at Akaal Takhat
Sahib.
As I read the inscription, I smile
not out of sheer disbelief, but admiration, the Sikhs will do anything to save
their religion, and death is just a part of upholding the religion.
Strangely although there have been so
many battles, decapitations, looting, plundering, desecration of the Amrit Sarovar, not forgetting the horrible carnage of the Operation Bluestar, the Sri
Harimandir Sahib is so peaceful and serene. No noise, no frenzy, no raucous
shouting. Just peace. How do the Sikhs merge their militancy with such peace
and contentment? I am bemused.
Slowly with absolutely no hurry I walk towards the the Darshani Deori,
which stands at the shore end of the causeway. I watch people sitting around,
silently conversing, I watch a baby rolling around with only its pink feet
peeking out of its woolens.
I get my ‘Karah Prasad’ and take it to be blessed at the Sri Harimandir
Sahib. Such a long queue at the Darshani Deori, everyone opens their little
books and pray in deep concentration. Prayers waft over us, we keep going.
I peek into the depths of the Amrit Sarovar, fat and well fed carp move
about secure in the knowledge that no one is going to harm or disturb them.
At last we make it to the inside of the Harmindar Sahib, the Guru Granth Sahib is being
recited by the Granthi, and except for the prayers there is silence, people
huddle at the balconies praying. On the top floors, Guru Granth Sahib is
revered with prayers. Golden canopies shield the Guru Granth Sahib; there are
chandeliers and jewelry, for after all the Guru Granth Sahib is the Word of God
Himself.
Sources
http://fateh.sikhnet.com/
http://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Structure_of_Harmandar_Sahib
Sources
http://fateh.sikhnet.com/
http://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Structure_of_Harmandar_Sahib
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