Saturday, March 14, 2015

Khell-Tiatr a Mirror of the Goan Catholic Society

There is no doubt that the Tiatr or even for that matter the Khell-tiatr reflects the Goan Catholic Society completely, be it on the social level or even the political one. A murder in Canacona will be sung with gusto by a tiatrist in Margão, Mr. Parrikar’s appointment as the Defence Minister may be lauded but in all probability will be criticised, the Nigerian drug wars were a topic for heartfelt change for a very long time. Chances are that if you manage to go for a Tiatr these days it will be all about the absence of beef in the local markets. Oh yes, the tentacles of the Tiatr reach far and wide and very deep, touching every little bit of life in Goa.
There are of course differences between the Tiatr and the Khell-tiatr, not in content of course but in the manner of portrayal. Whilst the Tiatr has a single story broken up in parts interspersed with most of the times satirical songs as well as comic interludes also satirical in nature.
On the other hand the Khell-tiatr has three distinct parts with three separate stories unconnected to each other called Parti, the partis are interspersed with comic interludes, hardly ever songs. Of significance is that Khell-tiatrs are held only during the three days of Carnaval, the best part is that they are roaming troupes, with their own band, in buses with a loudspeaker in front, large Banners advertising the Khell-tiatr hung on the sides and back of the very colourful bus. What joy to see and hear the Khell-tiatr making its way through the village.

Last year the central theme of the Khell-tiatr I had attended was conversions, spreading the Word of God. In one Parti, a girl who marries a Hindu had not only converted her husband’s entire family but managed to get the entire Ward to follow Catholicism. I was disgusted and the audience bored to tears with the preaching. It was Carnaval for God’s sake!

This year I hoped that there would be more humour in the Parti and less preaching. Sitting under the mango tree we waited in impatient anticipation, the band with two very energetic keyboard players announced with a flourish the opening Chorus. The first Parti had begun;
                                                     Alisha and her lover Franzell come skipping onto the stage, very much in love, murmuring sweet-nothings, promising each other eternal fidelity. Taking a break from their cooing to discuss their problem, Franzell has managed a job in Kuwait but is running short of money. The problem looms large, just then Franzell’s friend Alister pops on to the scene. On hearing their problem, Alister decides to help, speaks to his mother Rosalin, after much discussion and dire predictions from the mother Rosalin, they decide to hypothecate their house and lend the money to Franzell. The young couple is overjoyed; Franzell can now leave for Kuwait.
Every day at an appointed time Franzell calls Alisha, Oh my God! Screams Alisha in exasperation and utter boredom, doesn't this guy have anything else to do? He is supposed to work not bore me to death with his the-most-boring-love talk. Here I was meeting Jodric and we were to eat pizza. Franzell sends her money regularly, just pay Alister, he says, I want them to have their house back. Ok, ok darling, murmurs Alisha as she quickly disconnects the phone and moves away with Jodric her new boyfriend. Does she pay Alister any money? Never, not a penny, why should she? Sadly and much as Rosalin had predicted, Desmond to whom they had hypothecated their house takes away the house as they are unable to pay any money within the stipulated time. Rosalin dies at her sister’s place.
Meanwhile Alisha has been cheerfully feeding Franzell the most outrageous lies, she claims that every time she went over to Alister’s place to pay him the loan, Alister made a pass at her and one fine day actually raped her. Franzell is so incensed that without informing any person in Goa he decides to confront Alister.
Comes to Goa, insults Alister for taking ‘advantage’of Alisha. As luck would have it, Franzell meets another pal of his, Francisco, who explains the entire scenario to Franzell, they decide to confront Alisha. Arrange a meeting with her. Alisha comes with her latest boyfriend, Macenroe.
Alisha looks very mischievously at Franzell and says ‘Franzell you told me to buy anything I wanted, you sent me the money, I was so tempted, I just had to spend it. I like to be with men, you are never there...I love pizza too, so what could I do? And skips off in excellent humour, no pleading, no remorse, no talk of God, no moralising, nothing, just skips away with Macenroe to eat a pizza which she adores.
Franzell, Alister and Francisco look at her with envy.
I could not believe my ears, talk of being astounded, I truly was. The Director had in one stroke liberated Women from being the servile, docile creatures forever wronged, always begging for forgiveness. They could have the upper hand too, if they felt like it; truly the roles had been reversed with vengeance.

We relaxed had a cup of strong tea, ate some boiled kabulli channa and waited for parti three of the khel-tiatr.
                                                     Facyll leads a terrible life married to Snowden, every day the mother-in-law Mari Santan insults her, curses her, wishes she would fall into the nearest well, or die under a fast moving train, that way her precious Snowden could marry a nice girl and have wonderful children.
But Snowden and Facyll love each other and despite having no children and even if Mari Santan is a virago par excellence they manage four years of married life.
 Everyone urges them ‘go to a doctor’ ‘no says Mari Santan, my son is as virile as Quistod’s Bull. There is absolutely no need. It is this barren woman’s fault.’ Even Snowden’s vagrant brother, Snivio urges his brother, ‘Irmão go men, maybe some treatment will help you ...both’, he adds hurriedly when he sees his Mother’s dark glare.
Snivio the vagrant gambles heavily, anything will do cards, matka, tablam and best of all bets placed on Quistod’s Bull during the bull fights, dirio. He is always asking for money, begging every family member, ‘give men only ten rupees, will return no as soon as I get the winning number for matka. He does win sometimes but that money goes towards bets placed on Quistod’s Bull. Sometimes he pleads with Facyll, ‘give men, why are you such kanjoos , you earn nicely working as a teacher no?’ Sometimes Facyll does give some money tired with all the disgusting pleading, truth be told she does like Snivio, he can be quite funny at times.
Everything is fine, if of course you can consider it fine living with Mari Santan and her insults, humiliations. Mari Santan at times does not rest until she has humiliated Facyll to such an extent that Facyll has been reduced to sad person who is a nothing. But Facyll and Snowden lead a decent life, until Facyll’s father, Rosario, comes for a visit and is horrified to hear Mari Santan berating Facyll in that terrible, terrible way. He urges them to go to a Doctor, but Snowden refuses. Now Rosario comes often, he realises Facyll needs support and love. Although he urges them repeatedly to consult a doctor it falls on deaf ears. On one such day when Rosario is at Facyll’s house, Facyll talking to him collapses in a dead faint. Everyone rushes and the Doctor is brought, a brief examination, the doctor beaming says, ‘good news Mari Santan, Facyll is pregnant. Pregnant? Scream all of them, how could it be? And then Facyll says, ‘yes it was Snivio, who attacked me, raped me repeatedly’ Snivio just looks on and says not a word. But Facyll says, ‘see it was not my fault’. Everyone is thunderstruck, no one urges Facyll to get rid of the baby, Mari Santan content, and happy to have a grandson, does not blame Facyll for leading her precious son astray, perverting her darling son Snivio. Rosario does not urge Facyll to go to the police. Everyone thinks after all these years a Baby.
Was it rape? Who knows, who cares, and after all there is a baby at the end of it all. Again the Director makes the woman a powerful person, she wanted a baby and it is her choice to have one whatever the methods employed. Once again no scenes of crying, pleading, recriminations. Everyone so joyful.

I go home happy, the Director has made it crystal clear, the Woman has a right to decide her own course of action.

Saturday, February 28, 2015

Sri Harimandir Sahib or the Golden Temple at Amritsar

The Sri Harimandir Sahib or the Golden Temple at Amritsar is the central religious place for Sikhs. As it symbolizes brotherhood and equality, all people irrespective of their caste, creed or race can seek spiritual solace and religious fulfillment without any hindrance. But for the Sikhs the Sri Harimandir Sahib represents their distinct identity, glory and heritage.  
                Since deep antiquity a small lake in the midst of a quiet forest had been a site of meditation and a retreat for wandering mendicants and sages. The Buddha is known to have spent time at this place in meditation and contemplation. Two thousand years after the Buddha, another philosopher-saint came to live and meditate by the peaceful lake. This was Guru Nanak, the founder of the Sikh religion. After his death, his disciples continued to visit the site and as centuries went by it came to be a sacred place for the Sikhs.
It was Sri Guru Ram Dass Ji the Fourth Sikh Guru who decided to enlarge and deepen the Amrit Sarovar - Holy Lake in 1577 A.D.  Sri Guru Arjan Dev Ji the Fifth Sikh Guru started the construction of Sri Harimandir Sahib. Land had been bought by the previous Guru Sahibs or sometimes the local Zamindars –landlords had donated it. The construction of a town settlement was also undertaken, so the building work on the Sarovar and the town started simultaneously in 1570.
From the early 1600s to the mid 1700s, the Sikh Gurus were constantly called upon to defend both their religion and their temple against Muslim armies. On numerous occasions the temple was destroyed by the Muslims, and each time the Sikhs rebuilt it more beautifully. From 1767 onwards, the Sikhs became strong enough militarily to repulse invaders. Peace returned to the Harimandir.
Sri Harimandir Sahib, the Golden Temple, has a unique form of architecture, which can be termed the Sikh form of architecture. Unlike Hindu Temples, Sri Harimandir Sahib is at a level lower than the surrounding land level, thus symbolizing egalitarianism and humility. The four entrances to the Sri Harimandir Sahib situated at the four cardinal points go to show that any person without any distinction of caste, creed, sex and religion have a place at the Sri Harimandir Sahib.
Sri Harimandir Sahib is built on a square platform right in the middle of the Amrit Sarovar- the Holy Lake, at every Cardinal point of the Sri Harimandir Sahib a door beckons you.
Connecting the Sri Harimandir Sahib to the wide Parikarma  - the circumambulatory path which runs right round the main shrine, is the Guru’s Bridge or causeway. The Darshani Deori – Arch, stands at the shore end of the causeway.
Sri Harmandir Sahib is in all aspects a three-storied edifice. The front, which faces the causeway, has a repeated design of cusped arches. The roof of the first floor is at the height of the 26 feet and 9 inches.
At the top of the first floor, a four feet high parapet rises on all the sides, this has four ‘Mamtees’ on each of the four corners. Exactly on the top of the central hall of the main sanctuary we find the third storey. It is a small square room and has three gates. Prayers from Guru Granth Sahib are recited continuously. The fluted Gumbaz-dome shaped like an inverted lotus; it took 220 lbs. of Gold to cover its surface. The top of the dome has a Kalash topped by a Chhatri.
The combination of several dozens of large, medium and miniature domes of gilded copper create a unique and dazzling effect which is enhanced by its reflection in the water below.
Amidst a crowd of fervent and solemn devotees, scriptures from the Holy Book are sung beneath a canopy studded with jewels. A chauri - whisk is continually waved above the Book as pilgrims pay obeisance by touching their foreheads to the temple floor and walls, and moving in a clockwise direction at a relaxed pace.
After its compilation, Sri Guru Arjan Dev Ji installed the newly created Guru Granth Sahib – the scripture of the Sikhs, in Harimandir Sahib on August 16, 1604 A.D. Baba Budha Ji a devout Sikh, was appointed as its first Head Priest or the first Granthi, the reader of Guru Granth Sahib.
Within the sanctuary, on a jewel-studded platform, lies the Adi Grantha, the sacred scripture of the Sikhs. This scripture is a collection of devotional poems, prayers, and hymns composed by the ten Sikh gurus and various Muslim and Hindu saints. Beginning early in the morning and lasting until long past sunset, these hymns are chanted to the exquisite accompaniment of flutes, drums, and stringed instruments. Echoing across the serene lake, this enchantingly beautiful music induces calm in the pilgrims strolling leisurely around the marble concourse- Parikarma encircling the pool and temple. An underground spring feeds the sacred lake, throughout the day and night, in any weather, pilgrims immerse themselves in its water, a symbolic cleansing of the soul rather than an actual bathing of the body.
Amritsar, the original name of first, the ancient lake, then the temple complex, and still later the surrounding city, means ‘pool of ambrosial nectar’. Peering deeply into the origins of this word amrit, we find that it indicates a drink of the gods. This is an example of the spirit, power, or energetic character of a holy place lending its name as a geographical place name. The waters of Amritsar flowing into the lake of the Hari Mandir were long ago and remain till today a bringer of peacefulness as well as resoluteness.


I hurry; I am on my way to the Sri Harimandir Sahib or the Golden Temple Complex. Thinking of my Father who quoted often ‘An army marches on its stomach’ I fortify myself with a thick, Amul-butter oozing, aloo paratha and strong tea, enough to quieten my stomach for a long time, although Sikhs around me are guzzling parathas and luchas joyfully.
As usual when entering a place of worship I need to knock off my footwear, I head to the place for footwear, a huge room with tiered racks upon racks, as I hand over my dusty, worn out flip-flops, I am ashamed that the lady behind the counter has to touch the dusty footwear. I apologise; she smiles picks the flip-flops and moves away after handing me a token. Here at the Sri Harimandir Sahib everything is about humility and Seva.
I need to dip my feet in water, it is winter, the water must be cold; it’s a little channel with running water. As I step in, the water is warm and pleasant. I wonder do they warm the water?
I step up to the Ghanta Ghat Deori, the Clocktower, the Gurdwara's main entrance. As I stand on the threshold, the entire Harimandir Sahib Complex with the huge lake, lies in front of me, the majestic Amrit Sarovar, calm, beautiful with shreds of mist hanging all about it, although the sun is up and about glinting off all the domes. I gasp at such stark simplicity and most of all the utter peace. Although everywhere and everything is of marble which in itself is opulent, the overriding appearance is that of Simplicity.
As I walk around the wide Parikarma-the circumambulatory path which runs right round the main shrine, I see that it is made up entirely of white marble, inlaid with vari-coloured stones in amazing designs. To prevent pilgrims from slipping, as all men dip themselves in the Amrit Sarovar and there is water everywhere, long coir carpets are placed as walkways. There is such organization, a place for shoes, water for pilgrims in clean steel cups, place for wet clothes, separate enclosures for women to dip themselves in the Amrit Sarovar and of course the Langar, serving thousands of meals every day. Next to the temple complex are enormous pilgrims' dormitories. It is well known that the meals as well are free for all persons irrespective of their caste, creed or race.
In my circumambulatory path, I get to the the shrine of Baba Deep Singh.
Legend says that In April 1757, ‘Ahmad Shah Durrani raided Northern India for the fourth time. On his way back to Kabul from Delhi with precious booty and young men and women as captives, the Sikhs make a plan to capture him, take away his booty and free the captives.  Baba Deep Singh and his band took their position near Kurukshetra, a battle ensues, a large number of prisoners are freed, Durrani's considerable treasury raided and looted.
Durrani is incensed, embittered by his loss, orders the demolition of the Harimandir Sahib. The shrine is blown up and the sacred pool desecrated with the entrails of slaughtered cows. Durrani assigns the Punjab region to his son, Prince Timur Shah, and leaves him a force of ten thousand men under General Jahan Khan.
Baba Deep Singh, then aged around 75, feels that it is up to him to redress  the sin of having let the Afghans desecrate the shrine. He emerges from his scholastic retirement and declares to a congregation at Damdama Sahib that he intends to rebuild the temple.
Five hundred men go forward with him. Deep Singh offers prayers before starting for Amritsar: "May my head fall at the Darbar Sahib." As he goes from hamlet to hamlet, many villagers join him. By the time Baba Deep Singh reaches Tarn Taran Sahib, ten miles from Amritsar, over five thousand peasants armed with hatchets, swords, and spears accompany him.
The Sikhs and the Afghans clash in the battle of Amritsar, at the village of Gohalwar on November 11, 1757, and in the ensuing conflict Baba Deep Singh is decapitated.
The first version has it that Deep Singh continues to fight after having been decapitated, slaying his enemies with his head in one hand and his sword in the other. In this version, only upon reaching the sacred city of Amritsar did he stop and finally die.
Another version, on being mortally wounded with a severe gash to his head, a Sikh reminded Baba Deep Singh, ‘You had resolved to reach the periphery of the pool’ On hearing this the Baba, supported his head with his left hand and swept away the enemies with the strokes of his double-edged sword with his right hand, reached the periphery of Harmindar Sahib where he breathed his last.
The spot where Baba Deep Singh's head fell has a monument in the Golden Temple complex, of course  Sikhs from around the world pay their respects there and so did I. Baba Deep Singh's 40 kg Khandha- double-edged sword, which he used in his final battle, is still preserved at Akaal Takhat Sahib.
As I read the inscription, I smile not out of sheer disbelief, but admiration, the Sikhs will do anything to save their religion, and death is just a part of upholding the religion.
Strangely although there have been so many battles, decapitations, looting, plundering, desecration of the Amrit Sarovar, not forgetting the horrible carnage of the Operation Bluestar, the Sri Harimandir Sahib is so peaceful and serene. No noise, no frenzy, no raucous shouting. Just peace. How do the Sikhs merge their militancy with such peace and contentment? I am bemused.  
Slowly with absolutely no hurry I walk towards the the Darshani Deori, which stands at the shore end of the causeway. I watch people sitting around, silently conversing, I watch a baby rolling around with only its pink feet peeking out of its woolens.
I get my ‘Karah Prasad’ and take it to be blessed at the Sri Harimandir Sahib. Such a long queue at the Darshani Deori, everyone opens their little books and pray in deep concentration. Prayers waft over us, we keep going.
I peek into the depths of the Amrit Sarovar, fat and well fed carp move about secure in the knowledge that no one is going to harm or disturb them.
At last we make it to the inside of the Harmindar Sahib, the Guru Granth Sahib is being recited by the Granthi, and except for the prayers there is silence, people huddle at the balconies praying. On the top floors, Guru Granth Sahib is revered with prayers. Golden canopies shield the Guru Granth Sahib; there are chandeliers and jewelry, for after all the Guru Granth Sahib is the Word of God Himself.

Sources
http://fateh.sikhnet.com/
http://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Structure_of_Harmandar_Sahib




Sources
http://fateh.sikhnet.com/
http://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Structure_of_Harmandar_Sahib



Monday, February 9, 2015

We the girls from Carmel….

Carmel College, Nuvem completes fifty years and this brings to mind those wonderful years we spent there as a bunch of teenagers.

I would love to dedicate my reminiscences to my beautiful companions, scattered all over the world. 
Here is to us.
Antonieta Teles e Noronha
Belinda Rodrigues
Elizabeth Kovoor
Kirona Furtado
Glynis D'Silva Vashi
Ruffy Rose D’Costa
Blandina Dias
Laura Reis
Shelley D’Costa
Teresa
Viena Rodrigues
Prabha Naik Raikar Dhume
Frieda Rodrigues
Annabel Aguiar
Geeta Iyer Mahadevan
Sonia do Rosario Gomes

Our parents sent us to Carmel College for Women with confidence, a sense of well being and unadulterated glee.
Confidence and the sense of well being were based on the fact that Carmel College provided quality education in a select atmosphere and the glee came from the certitude that there were no boys who could and would cast polluting glances on their darling daughters. Never mind that boys could be met anywhere, we knew boys, our neighbors, but they were not considered dangerous, you see we knew their parents too. The boys they were afraid of were those at neighboring colleges. Those were the boys we longed to meet. But sadly our opinions were not sought nor were they ever taken into consideration.

                Oh yes, Carmel College was a homely place, accommodated in the Holy Rosary Convent at Nuvem, here we were masses of women of all shapes and sizes.
There were the nuns of course, housed in their own wing. We were extremely curious, what did they do? How did they live? Forgetting that they were women just like us. At sixteen those finer distinctions escape you.
 The Holy Rosary Convent was a fully operational School, a much older Institution than the College, the school had its own boarding. The College had its own Hostel.
How was all this arranged? It does seem amazing that nothing overlapped; everything did run so very smoothly.
Psst do not forget even for a moment they have God on their side…

We were a very small group of girls who entered the First Year Science, a First Class or even a High Second Class convinced our parents that we were intelligent indeed. Of course we too were pretty sure we were and surreptitiously looked down on those lesser beings, those who studied Arts. 

At the beginning of each day, we stood in rows in the Biology Lab and belted out the Carmel Hymn.
O Carmel fair whose peaks arise

O'er Esdraelon's thrice fruited trees;

Bathe in the blue light of the skies,

And laved forever by the seas,

I love the greenness of thy woods,

The fragrance of thy spiced air,

Thy wine inspired solitudes

 Carmel dear ! O Carmel Fair!

How good it felt to sing at the top of our voices, a little childish perhaps but oh so therapeutic. We trooped to our classes after the Bell for the day had been clanged.

The Nuns taught us practically all the subjects. I for one felt terrible when they changed their White habit with a Black veil and that lovely wooden rosary at their waists to an ordinary sari. They swished in and out of the classrooms so elegantly in those habits; it gave them a sort of classy distinction.
As in all aspects of life they varied in their teaching, there were those who strongly believed in the maxim, ‘Spare the rod, and spoil the Child’. And then there were those, who believed that we were adults, old enough to study and lead our own lives.
Sister Josephita belonged to the first lot; she the terror of Mathematics is a beautiful lady, those flashing black as coal eyes struck such fear in our hearts. She worked hard; she wanted us to master the subject. Of course there were some who just loved every equation she taught, but sadly Antonieta and I wanted other things in life. 
Antonieta loved debates, acting in plays, speeches, I on the other hand was a quiet little mouse, but we shared a passion. Reading, and more reading, just about anything that came our way. We plundered the Library, for books. We begged and borrowed books. All that reading did not leave much time for Mathematics to the despair of Sister Josephita or for that matter Physics, which was the domain of another Tartar, Sister Linda. Mention her and I shake like a jelly. They wanted us to do beautifully, they wanted us to absorb as much as they gave us; Unfortunately we never realized it then.
The calm and poised gang of Chemistry, Sisters, Odille, Florence Mary and Margaret Angela had decided long back that they would teach us, but they would also give us a choice; learn if you want to, the choice was ours. A wiser decision with much less stress for us, as well as for them.

Most of us came from the surrounding villages or Margão, our clothes were those stitched by our tailor, he came once a year to our homes, we combed catalogues, we discussed patterns, length of the hems, buttons, rick-rack, we dressed up neatly, nothing exotic, although the Panjim crowd did have a more fashionable wardrobe. But one term, all of a sudden, a bunch of girls from Africa descended on Carmel College. Talk of sophistication, they spoke excellent English, they wore the most fantastic clothes, they studied well, they were good at sports, they were something to behold. To us the gauche village girls they were exotic. On the one occasion where we could display our clothes and our dancing skills, The Carmel Ball, they were the stars.
We of course had some sort of revenge on our parents, as the Science section had so very few girls we went to Chowgule College for all our exams, which included the Practical Exams. One of our Africa returned colleague, Shelley D’Costa had a WV Beetle, we piled into that and went for exams.
You can imagine the grand entrance we made, nothing short of a red carpet.
For the duration of that week we were the toast of Chowgule College.

  Antonieta Teles e Noronha and Sonia do Rosario Gomes